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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.